To Audrey, chef Sean Brock’s Appalachia-inspired restaurant in Nashville, Tenn., diners enjoy Jimmy Red grits, a porridge made from dry, stone-ground wheat topped with a sorghum-cured eggnog and laurel (also known as sweet bay). This is a dish that would have been impossible to make 15 years ago.
That’s because Jimmy Red, the coveted heirloom corn variety from which the pellets are made, was in danger of going the way of the woolly mammoth until Brock stepped in to help save it. Deep red “dent” corn, named for the dent on each grain of corn, probably he made his way from the Appalachian Mountains to James Island in South Carolina around 1900, where it was prized by smugglers who distilled it into moonshine (illegal whiskey). In the early 2000s, the only remaining bootlegger growing corn died, and the corn almost died as well.
Thanks in part to Brock, the variety has made a comeback and is now grown by farmers and used by chefs and distilleries throughout the American South.
In 2007, before Brock was the James Beard award winner celebrity chef that he is today, attended a presentation on saving seeds to Stop Blackberry, a luxury resort in the foothills of Tennessee’s Great Smoky Mountains that is praised by foodies for its Southern fare and deep wine cellar. John Coykendall, master gardener at Blackberry Farm and a renowned horticulturist, was one of the main speakers, as was Glenn Roberts, founder of Anson Mills, a South Carolina company that grows and distributes products from heirloom grains. The couple talked about their quest to save the flavors of the Old South that had faded with the rise of industrialization after World War II.
Brock was intrigued and wanted to join forces. Like a southern evangelical preacher called to save souls, Brock felt called to save seeds. A sleeve tattoo featuring Jimmy Red corn and other Southern heirloom vegetables permanently marks him as a Southern food revivalist.
“This was one of those monumental moments in my career where I began to understand and truly believe that Southern food was as special and delicious as any cuisine in the world,” Brock said. “I felt a sense of purpose and responsibility towards food that I hadn’t fully encountered as a chef before.”
When Roberts heard about Brock’s new found passion, he sent him to South Carolina to see fellow seed saver Ted Chewning. The farmer was keeping something more valuable than gold at the seed savers: a few remaining ears of dry Jimmy Red corn.
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