Travel bites: The best pizza I’ve ever had was in the city you’d least expect

November 25, 2023 by EUNILITO

Siobhan Downes/Stuff

There are only three types of pizza on offer – margherita (pictured), marinara and bianca.

Pizza is probably not a word you associate with Japan.

In a country with many famous foods of their own – sushi, ramen, tempura – it may seem sacrilegious to waste stomach space on foreign fare.

But there I was at lunchtime, in a trendy neighborhood in Tokyo, tucking into the best pizza I’ve ever tasted.

It turns out that we should add the Japanese metropolis to the list of great pizza capitals, above new york and Naples. The style that has taken off here in recent years is inspired by that of the last destination – cushioned crust and simple toppings – but the local pizzaiolos have put their own stamp, generating a variety that the site of food. Eater nicknamed “Neapolitan Tokyo”.

Susumu Kakinuma, the owner of a pizzeria called Seirinkan, is considered the godfather of the movement. He fell in love with pizza during a trip to Naples in the early 1980s, and returned a decade later with the intention of studying the craft himself. The problem was, no one was willing to hire a Japanese chef.

Instead, he learned to eat. He returned to Tokyo and opened his first pizzeria in 1995 – originally called Savoy, but later changed to Seirinkan, a name that translates to “house of holy wood”.

Siobhan Downes/Stuff

A queue at lunchtime outside Seirinkan in Nakameguro.

In 2018, Seirinkan was introduced to a global audience when it was featured on the Netflix show Ugly Delicious – with the show’s host, celebrity chef David Chang, making the bold claim that the best pizza in the world can be found in Tokyo.

So it was no surprise that when we arrived at Nakameguro restaurant before the opening time of 11.30am, there was already a queue of at least 20 people snaking out the door.

When it was our turn to enter, we made our way up to our table using the terrifying wrought iron staircase that connects the three levels of the house. Photos and memorabilia of the Beatles (Kakinuma is a big fan) adorn the walls, adding to the incongruity of the experience.

Seirinkan’s menu offers only three types of pizza – margherita, marinara and bianca (also known as white pizza), as well as a selection of appetizers and pasta. Our group of four ordered one pizza per person, washed down with prosecco (we figured if we were going to have a “cheat day” from Japanese cuisine, we might as well fit it in).

The pizzas are served uncut, in the traditional Neapolitan style, with plenty of perfectly puffy crust on display. The margherita looked the most appealing, with its melted mozzarella and blistered basil, but it was the marinara that won me over – the tangy bite of the tomato and garlic was a heavenly match for the more savory chewiness of the pasta .

Later, when ranking our favorite meals during our time in Japan, we all admitted that Seirinkan had earned a place on our personal podiums. Sorry, sushi – but when it comes to dishes to try in Tokyo, it’s time for pizza to have its slice of the pie.

Fact file:

Seirinkan is at 2-6-4 Kamimeguro, Meguro City, Tokyo. It is a 5-minute walk from Nakameguro station. To see theseirinkan.com

Get here: Air New Zealand offers daily flights from Auckland to Tokyo. To see airnewzealand.co.nz

Carbon Footprint: Flying generates carbon emissions. To reduce your impact, consider other ways to travel, combine your trips, and when you need to fly, consider offsetting emissions.